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City of Shrines: Jerusalem

December, 2008

Jerusalem, one of the oldest cities in world, was the stage of important developments on the second week of November. The most interesting of all these developments was the great fight between Armenian and Greek priest in the Uptrend Church, which Christians regard as a holy place. Actually, this fight has been continuing for centuries. This time the cause of the fight was the Greek priests' demand to have a representative during the Armenian priests' ceremony.
The place of the fight is church that is believed to be the where Jesus was crucified, buried and will come to life. During the hustle of the fight, candlesticks flew in the air, robes torn and antiqued curtains shattered.
Long lasting disputes are the main cause of the quarrel. Fire exit that Israeli government wanted to build to this one-door Church still waits to be built because of the dispute between sects on the location of the second door.
19th Century ladder at the gate of the church cannot be lowered because disputes continues on which sect is authorized to so. Another problem is the roof, which would collapse if it were not repaired.
This fight showed how difficult to resolve dispute on Jerusalem's status. Problems are not only between different religions but there are many to be resolved between different sects.
Second important development was local elections in Israel. Jerusalem became a hot issue during the local elections. After the campaign period that increased tensions between fundamentalist religious and moderate Jew, the election became a race between Rabbi Meir Porush and secular member of city council Nir Barkat.
The election was a struggle between secular residents of the city and expanding fundamentalist religious Jewish community.
Major Uri Lupolianski is a fundamentalist religious politician. During his term as the mayor, he was criticized for protecting his supporters.
Barkat promised to open new settlement in East Jerusalem for Jewish people during his campaign. The status of Jerusalem is one of the most complicated disputes between Israel and Palestine. Palestinians want East Jerusalem that was occupied by Israel in 1967 to be the capital of their state.
Arabic: Quds-i Şerif, Jewish: Yeruşalayim, English: Jerusalem; the city located in Palestine; Jews, Christians and Muslims regard as holy and where Mescid-i Aksa is located. Jerusalem, also known as Yeruşalayim, Uruşelim, Yerusalim, Makdis, Beyt-ül-Mukaddes, Beytül-Makdis, İlya and Eyliya, is one of the oldest cities in the world.
Like all cities of the East, Jerusalem was founded around a shrine. Islam's holy book Kur'an suggest that Mescid-i Aksa should be the point of departure in evaluating the historical and holy places of Jerusalem and its surrounding. The center of the Mescid-i Aksa is the Muallak Stone, which is believed Prophet Muhammed ascended to Miraj.
This stone is regarded as holy; for Jews because the creation of the universe started with it, Abraham wanted to sacrifice his son on it and finally Solomon place the most holy object chest of the Old Testament; for Christians because Fınal Judgement will be done around the stone and Jesus's Chair of Justice will be places on it. However, for Muslims it is holy not because of its essence but for its memory.
It is said that the voyager of Miraj, Prophet Muhammed, was send off to his journey after prayin with Abraham, David, Elijah and Solomon in the cave under the Muallak Stone, which believed to have foot prints of Prophet Muhammed. According to the myths, the doors to Kingdom of Souls, aslo known as Well of Souls, and when Beytulmakdis were about to be destroyed by Chaldean Christian, guards of the shrine threw holy artifacts into this well.
Ummayah Caliphate Abdumelik Ibn Mervan built Kubbetussahra, in Turkey it is known as Prophet Omer Mosque, on the Muallak Stone. The building, which was started to be built in 691, is the oldest Islamic structure that survived as originally built. During the hours when the morning light shine on the marbe in the courtyard, Kubbetussahra seem flying in the blue sky.
Kubbetussahra is located at the geometric center of Harem-i Serif and the platform that it is built upon is approximately three to four meters higher than Harem square. Zincir (Chain) Dome, which is located ont the east of Kubbetussahra, catches the attention despite other various domes surrounding the platform. This dome, which is seen like 1/3 scale of Kubbetussahra because of its dimensions, was built as a treasury by Caliphate Abdulmelik, and later it was changed into open air mosque by demolishing the surrounding walls. A Jerusalem wanderer, who looks towards the east, could see the Mount of Olives and Kidron Valley on its hillside.
The Mount of Olives is the place, where it is believed that Jesus was ascended to the sky and finally return. Russian and German Churches built towers that they believe Jesus would descend. German's tower was located in the Augusta Victoria hospital complex and this hospital was the headquarters of the Fourth Army of the Ottoman Empire during the First World War. Jews built a cemetery on the hillside that faces Jerusalem because they believe that the Messiah would descend to this mountain. According to Jewish beliefs, Jews, who will rise from their tomb when the Messiah comes, would be people lying in this cemetery.
Kidron Valley, which is situated between Mount of Olives and Harem-i Serif, was the host during the last three days that Jesus spend in Jerusalem and Saint Mary was buried here. At the bottom of the valley Russian onion domed church Maria Magdalena and Catholics All Nations Church can be seen. The little church above the Maria Magdalena was built on the spot, where it is believed that Jesus cried when he saw the glamor of Jerusalem in those period and named in accordance with the Christian faith as Dominis Flevit.
Large Muslim cemetery is located on the side of Harem-i Serif hill that faces the Mount of Olives. According to Islamic soruces 72 Sahaba is lying down here. Besides the tomb of the first Muslum Governor of Jerusalem Seddab b. Uveys one of the most interesing gates on the city wall is found. The Golden Gate were the eastern gate of the city even during the oldest periods and Jesus used this door the enter the shrine. Since it is believed that the Messiah would enter from this door when he returns, Muslims built a wall to seal off the gate until the Messiah arrives and built a large Medrasa.
Aksa Mosque is on the south of Kubbetussahra. According to the what's being told that during Solomon's time this was not a part of the shrine, it was the place, where Solomon's study room is located. The reason why Aksa Mosque is built here is that the small mosque, which was built by Omer the Great after he conquered Jerusalem. Omar the Great ordered that the mosque should be built on the south of Muallak Stone, so that the direction of Jews and Muslims would not be confused.
The remains of Second Beytulmakdis, which was built in 6th century BC, is found outside the city. However, in order to reach to this point, one needs to exit from one of the northern gates of the Harem-i Serif square.
One of the gates in the north is holy for Muslims; Hitta Gate. This gate is mentioned in the Kur'an. According to Kur'an's description, during the years in which Israelites roamed in Jordanian deserts, God has warned them about the sins they have committed and asked them to acknowledge their sins by shouting "Hett, Hett" when they come to the gates of the Holy City. Israelites, because of thier pride, tried to deceit God by shouting "Hitta". Hitta means wheat. The narrow street that lies in front of you after passing through the gate is a classical street in the district called Mamluks District. It will joint with Via Dolorosa.
According to Christian faith, Jesus was taken through this route to be crucified and since 16th century this route have been used for pilgrimage. On this route one can find the cave that Saint Mary was born and a series of Churches build on the spot the arrest of Jesus,where he was interrogated, flogged, put in prison and where he fall down while carrying the cross to commemorate these events. The route, which goes around the city finally reaches to Holy Mausoleum Church. Holy Mausoleum Church was built by Byzantine Emperor Constantine in 350 and expanded by Crusades. It consists of a chain of churches. The center of the church is believed to be where Jesus was buried and revived after two days.
On the continuing avenue a Russian Orthodox church, which was built on the spot where John the Baptist believed to be killed, and the avenue leads to the square, where the castle is found. Oldest castle of Jerusalem was built in 40 BC and consists of three castles. Today's castle, which was built by Ottomans, rest upon the foundations of these three castles. Near the castle Yafa Gate, which is the gateway to Western Jerusalem, is found.
During the Ottoman era, the walls that were damaged because of the continous wars were repaired. Nearly most of the Ottoman walls survived until today. Today, Ottoman built city castle is known as David Tower. The empty space on the south of David Tower used as barracks (Kisla) during the Ottoman era and today it is known with the same name.
Avenue that continues towards the south from Kisla (Barracks) leads to Armenian District. Armenian District, city with in the city, is all about a monastery surronded by walls and Mar Yakub (Saint James) Church, which was decorated with Ottoman ceramic tiles, is found inside. Furthermore on the road, we would pass from Nebi Davud (Zion) Gate. Just outside of the gate we can see a synagogue, a mosque and a church built in the proximity of David's tomb, the room in which Jesus ate the last supper with his followers and the house in which Saint Mary passed away.
When you go down the valley without exiting from the gate, you will amazed by the grandeur of golden dome of Kubbetussahra and when you see the Western Wall, where Jewish people are praying, under the shadow of the mosque, you will be shocked by the density of holy shrines in just a kilometer square of Jerusalem.
However, today Jerusalem is not remembered with the holy shrines of three religion, but the aspects that turn Jerusalem into a battle ground, which shocks the whole world. Despite some progress have been made in peace talks, it remained the only disputed issue. May be the best solution is to govern Jerusalem as a holy city under the supervision of the United Nations. Who knows, peace in the Middle East would rise into the sky and shine upon the world.

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